The 123-year-old Las Violetas closed in 1998 but was somehow saved from the wrecking ball and reopened in 2001; the 47-year-old Bar Británico died and was resurrected during the last year; and now Café de los Angelitos, which was torn down in 2000 -- 110 years after opening -- has been reconstructed in full 1920s/30s finery and will reopen today. It was here that the Godfather of Tango, Carlos Gardel, signed his record contract with Odeón in 1917 (the place was known as his second home), and for years it was home to fat-cat politicians and the tango musician set. While these places might be remodeled, swankified, and feature non-period-correct modern bathrooms (no complaints here), they keep some of the soul alive.

Get a place in this bar my friend, right next to us. Submerge yourself in this heavy smoke, kiss insistenciously the glass in a hard drink, untill you blow your blues away. Let your lips feel the compasses of this tango, that from this corner, makes dance all the National street.
Just forget about your city hell, the darkness is chraming right here, your troubles and blues they are sparkling in champagne.
And if you get excited with the whispers, and this guitar's complains in this old cowboy hand's are going to turn you on, feel free to conquer some pair of female legs, those who spill honey when they are dancing. Fall in love for a while at least, it ain't that hard after all, this love is flying whit this tango.
And if you have enthusiastically heard, and you even song out of key, and some spongy hip taught what is the best way, it means you got it my friend, you finally got to know this old port's religion.
This is our port's dogma, with its classic hairdo heroes and its dared virgins, its rithms in the naughty night, and its lyrics that show you the cruel routine, this bitter normality, with twisted cheaters, flesh and humidity heat, owned and stolen myths, who get bored in this bitter feeling, and get dronk in The Cathedral tango bar.

The National Coffee: Av. Corrientes 980